Clone-A-Willy has been the staple for easy silicone dildo-making for as long as I can remember! They subsequently made a Clone-A-Pussy variant but it was probably the most underwhelming release ever.
You see the first option we got wasn’t usable at all!
It was only to clone the exterior of your favorite vagina with no way to turn it into an actual sex toy like with their original dildo kits. Why they did this, I have no idea. It seemed so simple to just have a method of sticking that mold on top of a stroker base… And I feel they’ve finally heard my plea with their updated kit!
The Clone-A-Pussy Plus+ kit allows you to make a Fleshlight out of your favorite vagina!
A total blessing, especially when you’ve found that perfect partner for your junk!
Alternatively, it’s worth noting you can clone whatever the hell you want. This means that you can sculpt or 3D print your own ( more info on how to do this in the hobbyist and pro section! ) or even mold random objects you’d like to turn into a DIY male masturbator! You can really get creative here if you want or don’t have a SO you can do this with!
But if you do have a SO and/or if you’re in a long-distance relationship, this could be a total godsend as well!
These DIY sex toy kits also come in multiple colors, ranging from natural skin tones to more colorful options.
The trickiest part of the process is the molding itself, though it’s nowhere near as difficult as their Clone-A-Willy Kits.
You see, every step of the process has to be timed. So you have to fight against the clock as you mix your mold, get in position, and leave it in there for 2 minutes.
Imagine having all to do that while maintaining an erection during the prep and curing process! Definitely an underrated advantage to having a vagina!
Wait? Isn’t molding a vagina bad for its health, PH balance, and so on?
Instead of using standard quick-set alginate like with their dildo kits, the Clone-A-Pussy kits come with a natural algae-based molding powder meant not to disturb sensitive bits like these.
Plus, you won’t be molding the inside of the said vagina, this is only to get the outside look of your homemade Fleshlight!
The resulting mold is then added to the internal sleeve to complete the stroker.
And voilà! You’ve got your very own pussy/whatever replica!
Of course, if you think that this coochie is too perfect not to be shared, nothing stops you from using the resulting copy to cast your own molds ( see how below ) and build an army of DIY male masturbators to do your bidding… or to sell ( with her consent of course )!
With my sex toy suggestions & reviews, I usually aim for silicone all the time ( or glass and stainless steel ) since body-safe toys are extremely important to us here at Tabooless. But when it comes to penis toys… body-safe isn’t all that important since these don’t go inside our bodies.
So if you’re looking to make a dirt-cheap effective DIY male sex toy with that post-apocalyptic / prison charm, search no more!
Since these options are not made of silicone, they won’t be as durable or long-lasting as the other methods discussed in this article.
So you will still have to replace parts ( or all ) of these DIY fleshlights over time and after each use.
But if you think of most of the popular non-DIY male masturbators, they aren’t made of silicone either! Their porous nature means they can easily harbor bacteria or mold over time and need to be replaced all the same after a while! So these DIY Fleshlights aren’t much of a step behind those mainstream toys!
Supplies for Homemade Fleshlights made out of household Items
To make a fifi ( That’s what these are called in prison! ) you will need 3 different parts ( with one being optional ) that can be sourced from multiple different items.
A “recipient”: This is the part you’ll want to replace as it’ll be the part that’ll receive the “results of your efforts”. You will also want something that mimics skin nicely when possible since this is the part that’ll touch your bits.
Padding: This is what will provide the sensation and tightness you’ll want!
A shell ( the optional part ): If you don’t want to provide your own pressure with your hands for tightness, a nice stiff container will ensure that you get consistent tightness throughout your experience!
Condoms: These are the obvious choice here to make a Fleshlight out of household items. They’re cheap, can be bought in bulk, and can even be provided for free by certain organizations! Plus, if you have certain allergies, they now make condoms in tons of different materials, so you’re bound to find a match.
You can even find some textured condoms and flip them for some added stimulation!
Of course, some who live with strict parents might want to forego this option as condoms obviously imply sexual activity.
Latex & Nitrile gloves: Another popular choice and even cheaper to buy in bulk than condoms ( you can get hundreds of these for the price of a condom pack )! These tend to break more easily though, so if it’s the case, you might have to double up ( to do that just put both directly on your hand to get some structure going and remove them ). Plus, if you’re allergic to latex or nitrile, you always have a backup option.
Clearly, these aren’t dick-shaped so they won’t be as ergonomic as condoms, but they’re still a great option especially if you need to be extra stealthy or cheap about it!
Dish Gloves: This isn’t the best option since the rubber is a lot less skin-like than the materials found in the above options. But still, it’s a very durable ( if not the most durable ) and inconspicuous option for those looking for more strength and/or stealthiness.
It’s also the most expensive option of the 3, especially if you’ll be planning on re-using your DIY Fleshlight over and over again since replacing a glove each time and sourcing a new one will really make the price shoot up into the stratosphere.
Just make sure you avoid dish gloves with fur/fabric on the inside! But if you were unlucky and ended up with one, flip the rubber side inside out and you should still be good to go!
Sponges: The most common and cheap type of padding. Easy to source and replace if needed. Plus, It’s very easy to cut into shape too if you need to fit it in a shell. It’s not the most realistic option, but on a budget, it’s pretty hard to beat.
Just avoid sponges with scrubby sides, and if you can’t avoid it, just keep that scrubby side away from your junk!
Towels: The OG prison method! And as many inmates would agree, rolling up towels is definitely a great way to go.
When it comes to the size you pick, I would go for the size between full-size body towels and small hand towels. But if you can’t source it, cutting up a big towel or using multiple hand towels will work as well.
Hollow pool noodles: Just by looking at these, you can see how this option clearly has its advantages! I mean, your homemade Fleshlight almost builds itself at this point.
Plus they’re rigid enough to act as their own Shells. While shells are optional, they’re definitely optimal in my opinion, so having padding that acts as a shell as well is a great way to save some dinero! Just cut your pool noodle to be a bit longer than your dick and your padding is ready!
Of course, if your girth is smaller than the hole, you can also just squeeze the DIY toy with your hand for tightness. This method also means shells should be omitted entirely.
Ice/Hot Gel Packs: This is the big brain OP solution! … It’s also my personal idea so if you see it pop up in any of those articles that badly copy ours, you’ll know it was definitely stolen!
Not only do those gel beads in those packs feel wayyy more realistic than your odd sponge or towel, but you can also cool or heat it before use, making temperature play as easy as 1,2,3! Of course, if you’re looking for realism, heating will be your best option.
It’s also a much better alternative than soaking sponges or towels in hot water before play as these can get super messy & splotchy… and once you’re done you need to dry up your padding or throw it away. It’s just a general mess.
I’ve seen folks suggest those gel beads that expand with water… or even gummy bears. And none of these options will last very long and offer the benefits gel packs offer.
Plus, that’s just a huge waste of gummy bears. Unless you’re super freaky and eat it after, then more power to you!
Now let me expand a bit more on this classic. We’re in the future now, and if you’re looking for an even more ergonomic shell, I’d actually go for some Lay’s Stax! Those bottles are just tailor-made to fit in your hand… which makes me feel like the CEO at Lay’s enjoys his fair share of DIY masturbation!
The biggest advantage of using this method is: Chips are tasty.
Cut-up plastic bottle: The poor man’s Pringle can! This method is simple enough: just get a plastic bottle like the ones commonly found with water and pop, and cut the top off!
Alternatively, if you want to make a shell that offers adjustable suction, cut the bottom instead and slightly unscrew the cap to adjust the suction while you go to town.
Reusable Drink Cup: The fanciest & most durable option. The thick plastic found on those means you probably never will need to replace your shell. Heck, they make these in metal too if you need something that can sustain the most amount of damage, you dog!
Plus if you REALLY love Starbucks, you can finally fuck it too!
How to put your homemade Fleshlight together
Finally! The moment of truth.
No matter which supplies you choose, the method of assembly is essentially the same:
You will want to take your padding and roll it into shape. To hold it together you can use rubber bands, hair ties, rope, or whatever works for you and is most accessible.
Now take your recipient and insert it into the hole in the middle of your padding and leave some extra material sticking out of the “fucking end”.
Take that extra recipient material that is sticking out and roll it over the edge of your padding! You can also make this contraption even more secure by adding an extra elastic around that edge.
(OPTIONAL) Now squeeze this build into your shell and you’re about ready to go! If you want your sleeve to stay more securely inside, you can roll your recipient around the edge to the shell instead of the padding.
Add lube inside the recipient and go to town! Warming lubes are also a great way to make it feel more realistic if you didn’t opt for the gel pack padding. I don’t suggest wetting the padding with warm water like a lot of people suggest as this can get really messy and make your contraption more of a single-use thing than an easy reusable one.
Once you’re done, just remove the recipient and throw it away. Once you’re ready for another round, you can just put a new one in and you’re ready to go!
To make a Fleshlight using this method is almost more convenient than what most standard masturbators offer since these require to be cleaned and we all know it’s the worst part of using strokers. Here, all you have to do is throw away your condom or glove and you’re done!
Plus, stealth-wise, if you use the pringles can or the reusable cup, you can just close it when you’re not using it and they’re quite easy to hide out in the open.
How to Make a DIY Fleshlight the Hobbyist and Pro Way
So you’re looking to make homemade sex toys for men of high enough quality to possibly resell? You’re in the right place, my friend!
The pro-finish you will get out of your DIY male sex toy using my method will even rival some of the stuff sold in-store. So if you’re planning on selling on Etsy, this is definitely a great place to start!
Plus being able to replicate and resell for profit might be a touch more involved at first, but it’s so much more rewarding and once your molds are made, it’ll take you no time to pump out subsequent copies.
This method of making DIY Fleshlights might be the most expensive upfront. But the price & time spent on each piece goes way down once you’re all set up.
If you want to keep your costs down, I’ve isolated optional “pro” steps from the process, this way you can choose where to put your focus yourself.
While these steps are optional, they are conducive to a more professional & durable finish. So I would follow these steps only if you’re seriously looking into making homemade male masturbators for sale and distribution.
Things you will need
To make shopping for materials as convenient and cheap as possible, I made sure that all the links are from Amazon.
To make a homemade Fleshlight in a body-safe, durable, and easy-to-clean way, we will be looking for platinum cure silicone and the most popular supplier amongst indie sex toy makers is Smooth-On!
Now, Smooth-On makes all sorts of silicones that aren’t body-safe, so make sure you double-check before investing in buckets of it.
You also have to consider the density of your DIY Fleshlights.
This is measured with the Shore Durometer scale illustrated here by Smooth-On themselves.
The most used options for DIY male sex toys are Ecoflex for softer toys and Dragon Skin for harder parts like flexible shells.
Ecoflex comes in 00-10, 00-20, and 00-30 hardness.
Soft silicone like this means that air bubbles will have less of a tendency of forming, so imperfections will be rarer. Plus, you probably won’t have to invest in more expensive equipment meant to avoid said bubbles
00-10 is the softest, squishiest silicone you can get your hands on! This is probably the most Fleshlight-like material around. The downside here is that you will need a shell for those DIY male masturbators since it’s so soft it’ll barely stand on its own.
00-20 is perfect if you want to make homemade sex toys for men that can stand on their own without a shell or just a more resistant stroker with more tightness and intensity.
00-30 is the hardest Ecoflex and won’t be optimal for most strokers. Unless you want to make a crazy intense stroker that is! If you use this material, I would still make the openings a tad larger so you can actually penetrate it!
Dragon Skin comes in multiple hardnesses, but 10 A and 20 A are best used for flexible shells for your strokers.
In most cases, you’ll at least need a pressure-curing setup. Even better if you invest in an additional vacuum degassing kit.
But frugal folks shouldn’t despair since the more popular 10 A comes in the NV version, which is low viscosity and should prevent you from Vacuum degassing!
10 A is probably the only consistency you’ll need. It’s especially useful for making silicone shells instead of using plastic ones. Silicone shells have a bit more give so they’ll still slightly stretch allowing for larger dudes to still fit in your toys if needed. It comes in a variety of pot lives and cure times, so pick the one that’ll work best for your workflow.
20 A and beyond is best for those looking to make non-flexible shells closer to the rigidity of plastic. The advantage over using plastic for a shell is that people will be able to throw the entire stroker in boiling water for a nice and thorough sanitization instead of having to pull apart their toys for cleanup. But these will absolutely require some degassing on your part if you want a bubble-free sex toy.
Amazon doesn’t seem to sell Smooth-On Silicone in Bulk, but the amounts provided there should be enough to get you started until you figure out if this is for you. If you do wish to pursue the hobby, we suggest buying buckets of it in bulk directly from Smooth-On.
How to sculpt your homemade Fleshlights
The methods here are almost endless.
When sculpting toys yourself, artistic talent will help tremendously since you’ll be sculpting your toys from scratch. But it is also possible to cast real vaginas and buttholes for the external part of your toy ( like in the Clone-A-Pussy section above. They even make cheaper kits to cast the external bits only! ) and use random objects for internal texture cores.
So you will need to sculpt both the external ( vagina, anus, mouth, alien orifice, you name it ) and the texture core ( the part that will shape up the tunnel your junk will go in! ).
When sculpting the external bits (a) there are a few rules to follow that’ll make your life much easier in the end.
I like to sculpt the external parts into a mound and have a small hole that goes from the entrance to the bottom of that mound. With said hole, don’t go big to the point where it’ll make it seem like it’s gaped out, but not too as small as it’ll tear during play.
You can make the hole a touch smaller at the entrance and have it expand as you go deeper as well to maintain the “tight look” of your sculpt!
It’s worth noting that when you sculpt the texture core (b), you’re not sculpting a hole but a stick.
Think of it as a negative of a hole. Once you fill the silicone around it, let it cure, and pull the stick out of it, then you will have a hole!
If you need more inspiration as to what texture cores should look like, take a look at Fleshlight’s textures for inspiration ( especially if you want to make a Fleshlight competitor )! And remember, silicone stretches, so don’t make the cores as large as a penis’ circumference. You’ll want to go quite thinner than that.
One of the simplest approaches is simply using Sculpey to shape your homemade Fleshlights.
Once you’re happy with the results of your external & internal sculps, bake your sculpture and let it cool.
Optional Pro Step: Adding a coat of Mod Podge to the finished sculpture will make your creation much smoother and this will, of course, translate into your final product.
To do this, simply brush it on or finger paint it thinly all over your baked sculpture and set it to dry.
Another great method is using 3D software like ZBrush, 3Ds Max, or Blender (which is free) to model your DIY male sex toy.
My personal favorite for organic shapes is Zbrush, but if you can’t afford it, Blender will do just fine.
This has the major benefit of giving you the option of easily offering differently sized versions of your DIY male sex toys without having to completely resculpt them from scratch. Plus making alternative sculpts out of your already-made models is super quick once you have a base mesh made!
Another underrated method for making your stroker cores ( internal texture ) with 3D, is using something like this dildo generator.
And while it might sound weird to use a dildo-making tool to build a textured core… it’s essentially the same principles! Again, the texture core is a negative of a hole… and a negative of a hole is a phallic shape!
Once your 3D models are ready, send your files to either a 3D printing service site or to your own 3D printer.
The best printers for the price right now are the Creality Ender 3 & the Prusa i3 MK3s. Printing quality is great on both devices, though the Prusa is much easier to use out of the box.
After your model is printed, give it a light sanding & priming to remove the grain from the print and you’re done!
If you just can’t bother making your own texture cores, there are some premade objects you can use for an easy internal texture.
These won’t be as awesome as texture cores made for that purpose ( again just look at the textures for Fleshlights to see how crazy & complex they get ). But it’s an easy quick method for those who just can’t bother making their own.
Things like threaded rods and clay pattern sticksare all decent options. Just make sure you don’t go for circumferences much bigger or smaller than a finger and that the length is enough to accommodate regular to long dicks ( 6 to 9 inches is usually enough to accommodate most ). If your texture core isn’t the right length, you can always glue 2 together and/or cut off the excess.
If you can think of other good texture cores, definitely let me know and I’ll add them here!
How to make your silicone mold
This is a crucial step in how to make a sex toy that is replicable to infinity and beyond. So if you want to make many copies of your DIY Fleshlights that you can easily resell, this is probably the most important step to get right!
First, you will need a good molding medium. I like Mold Star 16 Fast by Smooth-On because it’s simple to use, cures fast, and doesn’t require any degassing.
It’s also a good middle ground in terms of hardness, and from there you can try harder molding mediums like the Mold Star 30 to see what you prefer to work with.
Next, you will need a container to hold your mold as it cures.
Whether you want to include a plastic external shell or not, the container you use should be the same one you want to use as a shell or as the external look of your shell-less toy.
Either way, whichever container you choose, will define the external look of your DIY silicone masturbator.
As mentioned above in the materials lists, tube-like containers like Pringles/Stax cans, cut water bottles, and drink cups are all great options.
They’re also best if you’re starting out but as you get familiar with the process of making your own molds. you could eventually sculpt your own containers for a more customized signature look.
You will also need at least 3 copies of the said container as we’ll destroy a few of them in the process!
The molding process
In this step, we’re only going to be making a mold for the external part of your DIY Fleshlight.
So grab your finished vagina/butthole/mouth sculpt and let’s get started!
If your container is evenlike a pringles can (easy mode) just cut the bottom of it so it ends up just a little higher than your sculpt (a).
If your container tapers or has different shapes throughout its length (hard mode) you’ll actually want to use the top opening part for your sculpture as it’s where it’ll usually land. You’ll be left with 2 openings, keep the original opening and seal the bottom so it’s as watertight as possible. Cling wrap and elastics will work fine, but reinforcing the bottom with cardboard or something harder after might be a good idea to keep things nice and secure ) (b).
While it isn’t entirely necessary, spraying a thin coat of silicone release spray inside the container and over your creation is always a good idea.
I like doing this just to be safe since it’ll prevent your silicone from sticking to the model and box.
If you’re casting an object that is already made of silicone, the Mann Ease Release 200 is mandatory because it’ll prevent the silicone of the mold and the silicone object from bonding to each other.
If you can’t find this particular brand of spray, most other silicone mold-release sprays should work just as well.
Now mix your molding medium quickly and thoroughly so you don’t exceed the pot-life limit found in your silicone instructions.
So make sure you’re mixing enough to cover your creation completely.
Mold Star 16 is simple enough to mix since all you’ll need is a 1:1 mixture. Thankfully, the two parts are of different colors, so just mix until the color becomes uniform. If you’re using any other uncolored silicone, you could tint one part with pigments ( more on these later ) and leave the other clear to make sure both parts are mixed properly.
It’s also a good idea to use mixing bowls and utensils that you won’t mind not using in the kitchen again. Personally, I prefer using dedicated graduated pots because they’re cheap and make measuring easier as you mix.
Now it’s time to pour the mixture over your creation.
The trick here is to pour a thin stream of silicone from as high as you can ( while still being accurate ) and aim at the side of your container while letting the silicone settle around your sculpture. This process will prevent bubbles from getting trapped in the mix.
Continue pouring until the sculpture is completely covered.
Set the remaining silicone aside in its mixing pot while you let the mixture cure for the amount of time shown in your silicone instructions.
Follow the steps found in this video to set up your kit.
Once set up, just put your box containing the sculpture and silicone mixture inside of your pot and let it cure at about 40 PSI of pressure for the entirety of the curing process.
Once it is cured, make sure to release the pressure before opening your pot.
Before attempting to free your sculpture from the mold, check on the remaining silicone in your mixing bowl. If it is solid and easy to peel off, curing should be about done!
Remove the sculpture as well as the box carefully so you’re only left with the silicone sex toy mold and nothing else.
Voilà! You now have a perfectly reusable mold for replicating your homemade Fleshlight over and over again.
How to color your silicone DIY sex toy
Now we’re finally at the step of actually making a finished homemade Fleshlights!
But before we fully jump in, you’ll most likely want to color your silicone to something more appealing than the stock silicone hue.
To achieve this, you will need some good pigments like the great Silc Pig by Smooth-On.
A container or a cheap sampler kit will be enough to make tons of homemade male sex toys and mix pretty much any color you’ll need. So a little investment really goes a long way here!
It’s also worth noting that the more you’ll mix, the brighter and more saturated the colors will get.
Smooth-On also makes a pretty cool glow-in-the-dark pigment called the Glow Worm.
It comes in green and blue and, just like the Silk pig, the more you put in, the bigger the glow you’ll get.
Cosmetic Mica is another great option if you’re looking for more colors, sparkles, or a real deepblack.
Just make sure you’re buying a body-safe Mica since not all of them are good for sexual use.
How to mix your colors
Mixing the colors of your DIY silicone male masturbators is a lot like mixing any other type of paint.
Our favorite method is to color only Part A (of the two silicone parts) with the pigments. This will not only leave you with more time to color your silicone sex toys but it’ll also ensure a uniform mix of the two parts when the time comes to blend them together.
If you want, you can go crazy with your pour methods to create marbled designs, gradients, or any of that fancy stuff! It’s really not that complex once you see how colors interact with each other.
Once you have your mold handy and you’re ready to mix the colored part A to part B, proceed just like with the molding process.
Optional Pro Step: At this point, if you’re using silicone with a high viscosity, you might want to do some silicone degassing to get rid of as many bubbles as possible.
It is now finally time to pour the silicone into your mold!
This step is exactly like when you poured your mold except it is now mandatory to spray Mann Ease Release 200 into your mold beforehand. Otherwise, the two silicones will bond and you’ll have to make a new mold from scratch.
So repeat all the steps from the mold pouring process above but this time around, you’ll be pouring into the silicone sex toy mold.
If your container is evenlike a pringles can (easy mode) No alterations are required. You’ll be pouring your toy upside down and once done you can just flip it to face the opening. So simply place the external sculpt at the bottom with the sculpted part facing you (a).
If your container tapers or has different shapes throughout its length (hard mode) you will need to sacrifice another container. Cut the bottom of the said container without removing any length from it. Seal the original opening as watertight as possible and place the sculpture at the bottom of the sealed entrance with the new cut-up hole pointing up (b).
Next, you will need to secure the texture core in place.
My favorite method is to cut a sturdy cardboard piece wide enough to cover the opening while leaving some sides open so you can still pour the silicone in. Next, carve a small X into it so you can push the core through it.
You’ll want the core to touch the “hole” ( now a hole negative in your mold ) you carved in the external part.
You can now finally pour the silicone using the same methods explained in the mold-making section.
Set your homemade Fleshlight to cure in the open or in the pressure chamber at around 40 PSI for the amount of time required by the silicone you’re using.
Once this is done, pull it out, give it a good wash with some grease-fighting detergent (e.g.: dish soap) and you’re done!
If you wanted to keep the shell, put it back in a non-destroyed copy of your shell, or if you want to go shell-less just discard it completely.
That’s it! You now are officially the owner of a premium DIY male masturbator!
How to make a silicone shell ( optional )
If you want to make a Fleshlight-style shell that is easy to clean. You can easily make a slightly flexible shell or a harder shell that can be sanitized along with the stroker ( vs having to remove the stroker from its shell before sanitization ). It also happens to be pretty easy to achieve with this extra step!
Plus it’ll give your toys an even more professional finish not sporting an obviously altered recognizable container and all.
How you do this is by molding the actual shell you used during the making of your toy ( the thicker the walls of your shell the better ).
Once you’ve made a mold of the shell, put your DIY Fleshlight inside said shell mold but without the actual shell. Make sure it’s perfectly centered.
Apply Mann Ease Release 200 to the mold but not to your homemade Fleshlight as you’ll actually want the silicone to bond to it this time.
Color and pour the silicone ( Dragon Skin is best for extra rigidity, as mentioned in the silicone section ) into the gaps between the mold and the masturbator.
Let it cure as usual.
Voila! You now have a much more professional-looking product than if you kept the OG shell!
So go on and explore, innovate, and create my friend! I can’t wait to see ( and maybe even buy & advertise! ) your future homemade male masturbators!